Integrating Cosmeceuticals into a Procedural Practice


Zoe Diana Draelos, MD

How can we integrate cosmeceuticals into procedural practices? Dr Draelos provides us with some important clinical pearls:

  • Cosmeceuticals that are relevant post-procedure are: barrier repair moisturizers, growth factors, antioxidants, and skin lighteners
  • Procedure induced barrier repair can be accomplished with:
    • Occlusive substances that reduce TEWL: Petrolatum=99%, Mineral oil=50%, vegetable oils=40%
    • Humectant substances that hold water: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, proteins, vitamins, sodium PCA, lactic acid, urea
  • Growth factors, found in some post procedure cosmeceuticals, function as humectants to hold water and proteins can form a protective film over wounded skin
  • Growth factors are multifunctional peptides active in the picogram rang; they act as signaling molecules between cells by binding to cell surface receptors
  • Antioxidants are able to donate an electron to reactive oxygen species (ROS)
  • Wounding induces ROS, but antioxidants have never been shown to reduce post-procedural inflammation
  • Antioxidant vitamins A, D, and E used in healing products; but function as vitamin humectants or product preservatives
  •  Skin lightening ingredients include: kojic acid, licorice extract, arbutin, soy, lignin peroxidase, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, niacinamide, and resorcinol