Cosmeceuticals: Maui Derm 2019 Highlights
Carl Thornfeldt, MD FAAD, RSM, educated attendees on selecting the best cosmeceutical, with an emphasis on herbs. Dr. Thornfeldt’s presentation covered such topics as:- The many conditions associated with destructive chronic inflammation and disrupted skin barrier
- In vitro data as an inadequate method for predicting human success
- The requirements for “active ingredients” to remain effective at varying concentrations and formulations, and methods for determining whether these ingredients actually work
- Dermatopharmacokinetics
- Manufacturing and packaging specifics to protect ingredient efficacy
- Precedents for ensuring cosmeceutical efficacy and safety
- The benefits of using herbs in cosmeceuticals
- The effects on climatic and seasonal conditions, time of harvest, storage site and duration, and extraction method on the active ingredients in herbal extracts
- Results from studies comparing herbal blends with prescription products for the treatment photoaging and eczema
Henry W. Lim, MD
Henry W. Lim, MD used his presentation to discuss the latest in photoprotection. He began with the results of a survey on photoprotective habits including using sunscreen, seeking shade, and wearing hats and other protective clothing. Survey respondents who reported engaging in all four habits showed the lowest likelihood of sunburn. Dr. Lim discussed another study comparing users of sun protection factor (SPF) 16 sunscreen with a control group that observed decreased squamous cell carcinoma, basal cell carcinoma, photoaging, and melanoma among the users of sunscreen. Dr. Lim went on to review the public health and environmental detriments of organic filters such as oxybenzone and octinoxate as well as the merits of inorganic (mineral) filters such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Dr. Lim finished his presentations with the benefits of photolyases and stabilized, biologically active antioxidants in sunscreens.
